UpDates

Sizzling San Diego

Revel in the architecture, wit, and vision of this SoCal hot spot.

Summer nights in hip, stylish, bohemian downtown San Diego are  a hot mix of Chanel chic and Roxy flip-flops. Downtown’s dramatic  towers rim San Diego Bay, with its expensive sailboats, the U.S.S. Midway Museum, Seaport Village, and a ferry boat chugging between Broadway pier and quaint, kitschy Coronado. Explore the trendy Gaslamp Quarter, anchored by Horton Plaza, the House of Blues, and the Convention Center; funky India Street’s galleries and trattorias; and the Padres’ PETCO Park sports palace and the adjacent, exquisite Omni Hotel, with its McCormick & Schmick’s Seafood Restaurant. In addition to the W hotel’s mod décor and mojito/martini lounges,  you’ll find East-West Zen at The Sofia Hotel, including a yoga center, Wi-Fi, 24-hour concierge service, and orchid-enhanced retreats. Closer to the Convention Center, The Enclave is an exclusive “hotel within a hotel” at the upscale Hilton Gaslamp Quarter. The Hotel Solamar (above) is devoted to service and haute couture style. The ultimate slave to design? The Keating hotel, designed by Pininfarina, the Italians who crafted the look of Ferrari and Maserati. —Nanette Wiser

Photography / Courtesy of Hotel Solamar

What a Wall

Museum banners get a second life.

Artists know that inspiration can strike at any moment. Art historian Nora Weiser knows it, too. In 1997, Weiser was working at the Art Institute of Chicago when she came across a large banner advertisement on Michigan Avenue for the museum’s just-completed exhibit dedicated to Scottish architect and designer Charles Rennie Mackintosh. The 8-foot-long banner had been taken down, so Weiser took it home, where it never failed to impress visitors. “It was predominantly black and white,” she says, “but the scale was so dramatic.” Her friends’ enthusiastic reaction convinced Weiser and her husband, Nicolas, who works for an environmental consultant, to launch BetterWall (betterwall.com), a Web site that works with museums in the U.S. and Canada to sell the previously discarded vinyl banners. “It kind of works like a gallery,” explains Weiser. “As the banners are sold, the museums get a commission.” The environment also wins, because the banners would otherwise end up in landfills. Instead, they find a colorful second life as pop artifacts. “It’s an entry point into buying art,” says Weiser, likening the limited-edition creations to Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec’s advertisements for Parisian nightlife. “Customers like the look,” she says, “and the fact that they once hung on a street.”—Gaspar González

Banner from the exhibition “Dada” at The Museum of Modern Art, New York, featuring Marcel Duchamp’s Bicycle Wheel

Farm-Fresh Vacations

Have a grape-stomping, maple-tapping good time on a family agri-getaway.

Gathering berries at a U-pick farm or making fresh apple cider are more than just fun outings: They’re part of a growing trend toward agritourism. The concept, developed in wine-growing regions in Europe, has spread to the U.S., thanks in part to a surge of interest in understanding the sources of food. A recent survey by the U.S. Forest Service found that 62 million Americans visited a farm or ranch in the previous year. Families with children are among the top participants, with good reason: Agritourism aims to be both entertaining and educational. Farms from Portland, Oregon, to Portland, Maine, are opening their gates to visitors, creating one-of-a-kind travel experiences. At Doublerafter Cattle Drives in Ranchester, Wyoming, families can relive the Wild West while herding cattle, cooking over a campfire, and sleeping under the stars (doublerafter.com). Head to Woodstock, Vermont, to learn how maple syrup is made. Tours at Sugarbush Farm demonstrate how sugar-maple trees are tapped and take visitors into the sugar house, where syrup is processed and taste-tested (sugarbushfarm.com). Visitors can watch calves being born in the birthing barn, bottle-feed the babies, and practice milking at Fair Oaks Farms in Fair Oaks, Indiana. You also can see cheese and ice cream being made—with samples, of course (fofarms.com). Internationally, families are stomping grapes during the wine crush in Italy, feeding deer and bison in New Zealand, and pollinating vanilla flowers in India. The experiences offer more direct, intimate exposure to local cultures than many travelers could ever imagine. Wherever the location, families who choose this route are discovering that a few hours—or a few weeks—spent on a working farm strengthens connections with nature and with each other. —Jodi Helmer

Illustration / Dan Williams

Haute Pepper

If you haven’t sampled exotic peppercorns, it’s time to get cracking.

Aleppo. Sichuan. Tellicherry. Lampong. Piment d’Espelette. By any other name, or in any other language, pepper is one of the world’s most prized spices. In the kitchen, black, white, green, and even pink peppercorns have long been adding zing to everything from ahi to ziti. Across the table, hosts (not to mention waiters) regularly spice up dinner parties with their pepper-grinding skills. But, lately, an altogether different breed of pepper, in the form of flakes, powder, and berries from around the globe, has been finding its way into some surprising places. Chef Gavin Kaysen of El Bizcocho at the Rancho Bernardo Inn in San Diego seasons delicate seafood—day boat scallops, langoustines, and turbot—with piment d’Espelette, red-chile pepper from the Basque region of France. “Piment d’Espelette has a sweet flavor, with not too much spice,” he says. “It lets the integrity of whatever you’re flavoring come through.” At Il Laboratorio del Gelato in Lower Manhattan, owner Jon Snyder counts Thai chile chocolate (made with freshly ground Thai chile peppers and dark chocolate) among the 150 or so small-batch ice cream flavors he regularly turns out for Il Laboratorio’s retail café. “It’s a popular combination,” Snyder says. “The pepper adds a dimension to the ice cream that you wouldn’t expect.” For your own recipes, consider experimenting with mildly hot Sichuan pepper berries from China for chicken or duck, medium-hot Aleppo pepper flakes from Syria in pasta sauce, and deep-purple Urfa Biber pepper from Turkey, which adds a smoky flavor in meat dishes. To taste, of course. —Linda Hayes

Photography / Noel Barnhurst

The Greatest D’oh! on Earth

Homer and the rest of the Simpsons swing into theaters this month.

Throughout 18 seasons of television—the longest run for any sitcom, animated or otherwise—the Simpsons have had adventures nearly everywhere. Homer, Marge, and the kids have been to Africa, Brazil, and Australia. Ditto France, Scotland, and Japan. But after 400 episodes of exploits, there’s one place they still haven’t been: your local movie theater. That changes July 27, with the opening of The Simpsons Movie. Although it’s the Simpsons’ first appearance in the movies, the movies have made plenty of appearances on The Simpsons. Remember when the show’s town of Springfield got a dose of Hollywood know-how after being chosen for the location of the big-budget superhero film Radioactive Man? (“Sir, why don’t you just use real cows?” “Cows don’t look like cows on film. You gotta use horses.” “What do you do if you want something that looks like a horse?” “Usually we just tape a bunch of cats together.”) Or the time Homer had to cast the tiebreaking vote in a local film festival? (“Hmm. Barney’s movie had heart, but Football in the Groin had a football in the groin.”) Now the Simpsons have a feature film all their own, and the plot won’t surprise anyone: Homer must save the world from a catastrophe that he, himself, created. Produced by James L. Brooks and directed by David Silverman, 20th Century Fox’s The Simpsons Movie features the voice cast of the TV series as well as writers from throughout the show’s history, including creator Matt Groening. Sadly, the movie won’t have Troy McClure (voiced by the late Phil Hartman), Springfield’s most prolific B-movie star. As he would’ve said himself, you’ll just have to remember him from such films as The Greatest Story Ever Hula-ed and The President’s Neck Is Missing. —Spencer Carney

Matt Groening / The Simpsons ™ and © 2007 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.

A Slice of Summer

When the warm wind blows and the vine ripens, it’s time to fete tomatoes.

In the early ’90s, genetic engineers focused their microscopes on the tomato (a beloved symbol of summer). They dubbed their modified marvel the Flavr Savr, a catchy name, but alas, tasteless. With no flavor in the Flavr Savr, its real life (if not its shelf life) was short and the tomato was permanently canned. Enter the heirloom, in every way the antithesis of its genetically modified cousin. “With heirlooms, it’s all about the flavor,” says Gary Ibsen, director of Carmel, California’s venerable NatureSweet TomatoFest, now in its 16th year. Instead of creating something new like a mutant, square-shaped tomato that’s easy to package, Ibsen wanted to save something old. Something that tasted great and had unique “flavor profiles,” “big shoulders,” multicolored stripes, and funny-looking creases (not to mention bumps and lumps). As an homage to the heirloom, TomatoFest was born. With 350 varieties cubed and toothpick-ready, TomatoFest is to food and gardening aficionados what Disneyland is to kids (festival proceeds go to children’s charities). More than 100 chefs and wineries will line up this September waiting to give you a sample of something delicious, such as tomato sushi or sun dried–tomato cotton candy paired with a tasty, tomato-free beverage. More than likely you’ll leave with some seeds. The Johnny Appleseed of tomatoes, Ibsen has collected (and planted) heirlooms from China, Bulgaria, India, Vietnam, and more—Brandywines and Green Zebras, Purple Calabashes and Boxcar Willies. His mission is to spread tomato seeds, and heirloom appreciation, far and wide. —Sara Settegast Hare

Illustration / Courtesy of W. Atlee Burpee & Co.; burpee.com

Retro Replay

Looking to score a vintage arcade machine? Here are the rules of the game.

If you played the original Pong as a 15-year-old when it was released in 1972, you’ll be celebrating your 50th birthday this year. Many of those former arcade aficionados are looking to get back in the game. And there’s something alluring about having a full-size vintage arcade game in your den. Now is a great time to get one, with many old-fashioned arcades going out of business. There are two basic types to choose from: standard upright and sit-down tabletop. Upright machines begin at about $500 and can run well into the thousands. “Every collector has their personal holy grail of arcade machine lore,” says John St. Clair, the author of Project Arcade: Build Your Own Arcade Machine (arcadecontrols.com). Classics such as Ms. Pac-Man average about $2,500. The most expensive units are the super-rare or the super-big, such as Star Wars with full cockpit and X-Wing controls. Even the small machines are heavy, so add about $200 for shipping. Most important, the complex circuitry requires careful cleaning. “You do not need tech experience for most maintenance, but you do need some aptitude and a willingness to learn,” St. Clair says. Or, he says, hire a professional to maintain your machine. Your local arcade and game auctions often sell things as-is: no returns, no support. The best bet is finding a dealer that caters to the home market. Try Game Cabinets Inc. (gamecabinetsinc.com) and TNT Amusements (tntamusements.com). Touch base with these guys and you’ll have Pac-Man Fever in no time. —Damon Brown

Ilustration / main: John Hersey

Rio’s Rich Environs

The spectacle continues outside one of the world’s most picturesque cities.

Rio de Janeiro is blessed not only with a magnificently scenic urban setting, but also with wonderful natural areas and resorts within 100 miles of the city. Just outside Rio, a winding mountain road takes you to Petrópolis, a city built in the 1840s as a summer retreat for Brazil’s emperor, Dom Pedro. About 12 miles from Petrópolis, in Itaipava, in the Atlantic Forest (with more species than the Amazon), the hostelry Pousada Tankamana (Tel: 55-24-22229181 or www.tankamana.com.br) offers delicious food and comfy log cabins with fireplaces and hot tubs. Another 30 minutes away is Teresópolis and the Serra dos Orgãos National Park, one of the finest places in the country for hiking and rock climbing. The five-hour hike to Pico dos Sinos yields stunning views of mountains and bromeliad-covered rocks. Guarding the park’s entrance is the rock formation Dedo de Deus (Finger of God). Nearby, the charming guesthouse Pousada Rosa dos Ventos (Tel: 55-35-35251358 or rosadosventos.com.br) offers luxurious rooms and grand views. For aquatic sports head for Búzios, a seaside resort 100 miles from Rio, with 23 beaches and excellent sailing and windsurfing. Le Relais-La Borie Hotel (Tel: 55-22-26208504 or laborie.com.br), on Geribá Beach, has a wonderful oceanfront pool and restaurant. The staff can set you up with sailboats, windsurfing equipment, and guided boat trips for snorkeling, diving, or fishing. —Daniela Hart

Illustration / Dan Williams

Time Machines

A small Smokies town houses a classic collection of motorcycling rarities.

In summer, the Blue Ridge Parkway and other winding southern Appalachian roads are a magnet for motorcyclists. Astride your own bike or not, don’t miss the Wheels Through Time Museum in the Great Smoky Mountain town of Maggie Valley, North Carolina. It’s an Aladdin’s cave crammed with curiosities. The motorcycle was the first mechanized form of personal transport, invented in 1868, 29 years after the bicycle and 25 years before the automobile. Museum founder Dale Walksler has been mad about bikes since childhood, when he got his first one, a Harley-Davidson Panhead built in 1952. A 1957 police trike costing $25 started him collecting, and in 1972, at age 22, he became the youngest start-up Harley dealer in America. Adding a few vintage cars, he opened a transport museum. In 1999, with 250 bikes, Walksler moved the mushrooming collection from Illinois to Maggie Valley. The museum includes the Traub, a 1916 wonder that had no equal with its 80-cubic-inch side-valve motor, three-speed gearbox, and dual-action rear brakes. It was found behind a brick wall in Chicago in 1968 at the former home of William F. Traub, the owner of the bankrupt Traub Range Company. Had he walled in the bike to save it from creditors? Such are the tales that emerge from these classics, which also include a 1914 Flescher Flyer, built by Louis Flesher (or Flescher). An Omaha, Nebraska, bicycle builder, Flesher switched to motorcycles after an inspirational visit from George Wyman, who in 1905 had become the first man to cross America on a motorcycle. Walksler subtitles his site “The Museum That Runs” because 95 percent of the bikes do. What are the machines worth? The consummate collector, Walksler champions historical significance over dollar value. “Given their uniqueness,” he says, “I’d say they’re priceless.”—Jim Leggett

Photography / Mark Wagoner

Click, Pack, and Go

Resourceful Web sites help vacationing families pick the perfect spot.

Families can take control of their travel planning this summer by going online before they go on the road. Find a great getaway at www.responsibletravel.com, featuring a searchable database of “responsible” tours worldwide. Click on “Family Holidays,” and then choose a type of vacation, such as safari or winter sports, and a destination from among 80 available. A search for a family safari in Tanzania yields five tours, including a chance to go off the beaten path with the cattle-rearing Barbaig tribe. Responsible is not just a buzzword here. The site says it screens each tour to ensure it meets detailed environmental, economic, and social standards. Search customcamp.com for destinations that offer kids’ “camps”—arts and adventure programs to entertain children while parents enjoy a strenuous hike or a fine restaurant. A search for an adventure vacation in the Western U.S. produces dozens of camp specifics. The site also locates special-needs programs. Ciaobambino.com lists accommodations in England, Italy, France, and Spain that welcome families. It screens each property for placement in at least one of four categories: “Baby Ready,” “Toddler Fun,” “School Age Action,” and “Cool for Teens.” The company also has a professional service that arranges complete tours. Among the oldest family-tour operators is rascalsinparadise.com, with itineraries designed specially to engage youngsters. A trip to Argentina includes whale-watching, horseback-riding, and a chance for children to help the chef prepare a local parrillada, or Latin American grill. —Kelli Rush

Illustration / Pep Montserrat

Meet Your Match

At spas around the U.S., singles pair up between their massages and manicures.

Does a detoxifying seaweed body mask put you in the mood to flirt? A growing number of spas think so. Across the U.S., spas are becoming more than just places to get massages and mani-pedis; now they’re places for singles to meet and mingle. And as men increasingly slip into terry bathrobes to join the ranks of spa-goers (at Townhouse Spa in New York, the gender mix is 50/50), the opportunities to chat up the opposite sex are more prevalent. “We’re not promoting it, and it’s not a dating service, but it happens,” says Tina Spaic of Completely Bare in New York, which, like other spas, has a co-ed waiting area for relaxing between treatments. It’s quite natural that socializing would occur in such a setting, say spa execs. “After you’ve gotten a massage or had any other mind/body work, you should be peeled back to a balanced state,” says Annebeth Eschbach, the CEO of Exhale Spa, which has eight locations around the country, “and it’s in our balanced state that our hearts are open.” Some spas have lounges or outdoor areas for clients to have a cocktail and mingle, like ZaSpa in Dallas, which offers vodka shots in its “Big Chill” room; others, such as Townhouse, have special nights to bring singles together. Jamie Ahm, the owner of Townhouse, expects her singles business to grow. The first floor of Townhouse is dedicated to both sexes, and clients receive complimentary cocktails when they have a treatment. It’s a welcome change, she says, from the usual pick-up spots. “We’ve had restaurants, bars, and clubs,” says Ahm. “But as soon as you step into a spa, people are a little less on guard. And there’s less of a sleaze factor.” Sleaze, no. Slime? Only if you count the seaweed mask. —Ellise Pierce

Photography / Mark Wagoner