Three Perfect Days / Zürich

History is all around you in Zürich. Streets abound in medieval architecture—residential, municipal, and commercial. One of the world’s major financial capitals, Zürich is home to elegant shops, perfectly dressed citizens, and excellent services for locals and tourists alike. But Zürich exudes more than wealth: It’s a hip, art-oriented city that’s emerging as one of Europe’s hot spots. With more than 40 museums, an on-time public transportation system, and a stunning location at the head of Lake Zürich on the Limmat River, Zürich earns repeated recognition as the world’s most livable city.

DAY ONE / Enjoy that livability at Hotel Zum Storchen, an elegant boutique hotel on the riverbank. The Storchen is home to the medieval Boatmen’s Guild (Zunft zur Schiffleute), and you can see some of the guild’s silver treasures in the lobby, where head concierge Gennaro is sure to greet you warmly.

After breakfast on the hotel’s riverfront balcony, walk directly across the square from the Storchen and along the water through the Schipfe. A remnant of the days when Zürich’s commercial traffic docked on the river, this district is now home to quaint shops and beautiful architecture. At No. 41 Schipfe, Otto Schmid sells antique prints and photos of the city. At nearby No. 31 is Zur Kristall-Höhle, which specializes in minerals and semiprecious stones. As you continue north on Schipfe, take the steps on your left to the Lindenhof, the ruins of Zürich’s original Roman fortification, now a park with impressive city views. Back at Schipfe, stroll northward to Schweizer Heimatwerk (Swiss Crafts) for such Swiss-made items as toys and tableware.

Turn left out of Heimatwerk and follow Uraniastrasse to Bahnhofstrasse, a world-class shopping street. Continue south on Bahnhofstrasse to Bürkliplatz, at the head of the lake. The land side of the square hosts a lively fruit, vegetable, and flower market on Tuesday and Friday mornings, but Bürkliplatz comes into its own on Saturdays, when its massive flea market offers quality antiques and junk in nearly equal proportions. Cross the street to admire Hermann Hubacher’s 1952 bronze statue of the mythological prince Ganymede. Walk left for a view of the lake from the Quai-Brücke (Quai Bridge), or go right to the lakeside arboretum.

Catch the 2, 8, 9, or 11 tram across the street and ride two stops to Paradeplatz. Cross Bahnhofstrasse and take In Gassen to No. 16 and Bierhalle Kropf for traditional Swiss food. Your meal in the main dining room allows you to admire the fanciful paintings on the walls and ceilings of cherubs carrying overflowing mugs of beer and enormous hams. Order the Wurstplatte Kropf, a selection of four sausages served with traditional onion gravy and Switzerland’s gift to potato lovers, Rösti.

Back at Paradeplatz, take tram No. 8 or 9 four stops to Kunsthaus Zürich, the city’s art museum. Opened in 1910 (and expanded enormously since), the Kunsthaus exhibits a diverse collection including medieval altar pieces, works of major Swiss artists such as Alberto Giacometti and Ferdinand Hodler, impressionist and cubist masters Monet and Picasso, and modern masters such as Rothko and Bacon. Return to Paradeplatz on the tram.

Travel In Gassen again to Schlüsselgasse on your left and walk to St. Peter Hofstatt, a serene square opposite the St. Peter Church. Sit on the bench that surrounds the ancient linden tree in the center of the square and watch Zürich: a wedding party posing for photographs, shoppers and residents buzzing in and out of stores and 14th- and 15th-century houses, fellow travelers admiring the beauty of this restful spot. Zürich’s first church was built here in the ninth century. The tower, which sports the largest clock face in Europe, was rebuilt in 1534. The austere church interior is open from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. weekdays and from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturdays. Follow Thermengasse, a stairway on your left as you exit the church square, to walk over the ruins of a Roman bath. At the end of the stairway you’ll face the side of the Storchen.

Walk to a nearby dinner at Kaiser’s Reblaube. Chef and owner Peter Brunner cooks classics the Swiss might describe as “my grandmother’s cooking prepared by a brilliant chef.” Have the all-out specialty, Geschnetzeltes Kalbfleisch nach Zürcher Art (shredded veal with mushrooms and cream); Brunner’s version is rich, though light and elegant.

After dinner, head to Widder Bar in the hip Widder Hotel. One of the hottest jazz venues in Europe, Widder Bar features such luminaries as Abby Lincoln, Hank Jones, and Phil Woods.

DAY 2 / Get an early start today and take a five-minute ride on tram No. 4 to the Hauptbahnhof, Zürich’s main station, for the train to Lucerne. Have a quick breakfast at one of the many venues in the station, or pick up a portable breakfast for the train. Departures to Lucerne are at nine and 35 minutes after the hour.

The hourlong ride takes you above Lake Zürich and alongside Lake Zug. Stop at the Lucerne Tourism office in the train station and buy tickets for the Golden Round Trip. You’ll take the ferry, available from May to October, to the foot of Mount Pilatus at Alpnachstad. Ascend to the summit via the Pilatus Cog Railway (in operation since 1889) for magnificent views; then spend a few hours doing light to moderately strenuous walking and hiking along a variety of airy Alpine paths. One of the longer trails reaches the Tomlishorn, Pilatus’ highest peak at 2,132 meters (6,995 feet).

Still atop Pilatus, you’ve earned a hearty lunch at the Hotel Pilatus Kulm and its traditional Swiss restaurant, the Taverne, a cozy room perfect for tasting local specialties. Fondue is a popular and substantial choice, as is the Käsewahe, or cheese tart.

Descend via cable car to Fräkmüntegg and change to the panorama gondola for the descent to Kriens. Take the No. 1 bus that leaves Kriens every seven or eight minutes for the 15-minute ride back to the Lucerne train station. Pause outside the station at Konditorei Heini, the best pastry shop in central Switzerland. Bruno and Hans Heini operate the business, started by their grandfather. Try Suleikas Torte, an exotic combination of chocolate cake, orange marmalade, and fruit-studded rum cake. From the train station, return to Zürich and exit the back (east) side of the station for tram 4 or 15 back to the hotel.

After a short rest, head to Wings Airline Bar & Lounge for a cocktail before dinner. It’s on a quaintly arcaded portion of the Limmatquai and feels like a private club.

Then enjoy dinner on the riverfront balcony at the Storchen. Don’t miss chef Fredi Nussbaum’s lobster bisque or honey balsamic–glazed duck breast. Save room—the desserts are splendid. Have a nightcap at the intimate Storchen bar on the same floor as the restaurant.

DAY THREE / Breakfast at Café Schober at Napfgasse 4, across the river from the hotel and down Münstergasse. A Zürich institution since the mid-19th century, the café is famous for its hot chocolate topped with whipped cream from the café’s own herds. Try it with a piece of gugelhupf, a raisin-studded coffee cake.

After breakfast, walk north on Niederdorfstrasse to Rindermarkt (beef market) and turn right. You’re on a street that existed during Zürich’s Roman days and is now peppered with elegant boutiques and art galleries. The street then becomes Neumarkt, lined with historical houses. No. 3 was the home of Rudolf Brun, who led a quiet coup to overthrow the nobility-controlled town council in 1336. No. 5, the former Zunfthaus Zur Schumacher (shoemakers’ guild house), is now the home of the Theater am Neumarkt. No. 4, the Haus zum unteren Rech, houses the city’s architectural records and a scale model of Zürich as it was in 1800. Back at the junction with Rindermarkt, take the left fork this time and you’ll be in Spiegelgasse. At No. 1, the Café Voltaire was the hotbed of the 20th century’s Dadaist art movement, and No. 17 is the house where Vladimir Lenin lived from 1914 to 1917—they say he still has an unpaid tab at Café Schober. Turn left on Münstergasse to the Grossmünster Zürich cathedral, completed in 1220. Inside you’ll see the tomb of saints Felix and Regula, early Christian martyrs and two of Zürich’s patron saints.

It’s lunchtime, so head down Limmatquai to Bellevueplatz for your do-it-yourself meal at Globus Bellevue, on Theaterstrasse. The ground floor of this department store has stations dispensing hot and cold food, an espresso and dessert counter, and indoor and outdoor seating.

Ride tram No. 4 or 15 from Bellevue to Central. You’ll see the entrance to the Polybahn, a little train that will take you to the upper city to the terrace in front of the Polythechnikum, Zürich’s university technical school. The terrace affords the best views of the city, so get out your camera. Then catch the little train back down.

At Central, walk toward the brightly tiled roof of the Schweizer Landesmuseum (Swiss National Museum). Inside, see the history of Switzerland from prehistoric times. The museum is under renovation (expected to be completed in 2013) but remains open. Don’t miss the medieval paintings and statuary, reconstructions of period rooms, and the clothing and uniform exhibits.

Take tram No. 11 from the back of the train station to Paradeplatz for chocolate and desserts. Confiserie Sprüngli has been operating in its present location since 1859. Sprüngli’s all-out blockbusters are Luxembürgerli, delicate macaroons sandwiched with a buttercream or chocolate filling. Up one flight in the elegant tea room, sip a coffee and enjoy a single portion of one of the many desserts, possibly the Truffes (truffles), a chocolate loaf-shaped cake with what looks like a pitched roof on top, all made of chocolate ganache filling.

You’re not far from the hotel, so refresh there before dinner at the Restaurant Kronenhalle, just a few steps up the hill from the Bellevue tram stop. One of the world’s legendary restaurants, the Kronenhalle has walls peppered with paintings by Chagall, Matisse, Picasso, and other modern masters. At the bar, admire the ironwork lamps and decorations by the Giacometti brothers. After a glass of the house champagne served by award-winning head bartender Peter Roth and his charming colleague Hildegard Müllner, request the ground-floor dining room. The walls are painted with the shields of Zürich’s most prominent families, some of whom may be sitting at the next table. Chef Peter Schärer’s extensive menu features house specialties such as the famous Wiener schnitzel. Don’t miss the chocolate mousse for dessert.

After dinner, you’re off to the Zürich Opera, a white and gold jewel box of a theater in operation since 1891. Operas, ballets, and other musical events are offered in repertory. Head back to the Kronenhalle bar for a nightcap and sit on the couch just under the immense Miró canvas to ponder the sights, sounds, and tastes of three perfect days in Zürich.

Nick Malgieri is a cookbook author, food and travel writer, and former resident of Zürich who has nurtured a deep affection for and close ties to the city for more than 30 years.