 By Peter Miller / The Ski Capital of the East. Vermont Thrills Me. There’s Always Snow in Stowe. All are slogans, some almost a half-century old, that refer to the skiing on Mount Mansfield, the highest mountain in Vermont (4,395 feet) and, locals say, home to the best snow-sliding in the East.
The village of Stowe itself may be seven miles from the ski slopes down Route 108 (known locally as the Mountain Road), but the area makes a single, indelible visual statement.
When it’s cloaked in snow, this 200-plus-year-old village is like an image from Currier & Ives. Its classic wood-framed homes and shops evoke a sense of tradition that tugs at America’s collective memory. Take a nostalgic stroll down Main Street on a snowy evening, when the carillon bells are chiming, and you’ll savor an unrivaled sense of place and peace.
A winter visit to Stowe is a retreat to a New England straight out of a Robert Frost poem (he lived just down the road in Ripton, Vermont). On a frost-feathered mountain trail atop Mount Mansfield or a cross-country track deep in evergreen forest, you may not hear a horse give his harness bells a shake, but you’ll know whose woods these are amid the velvety hiss of falling snow. They’re yours, for the experience of a lifetime.
DAY ONE / The  Trapp Family Lodge is your home base. Perched above the valley of Stowe, it was a remote hillside farm when it was purchased by Baron and Baroness von Trapp in 1942 after they fled Nazi-occupied Austria with their family. You know the story: The Sound of Music.
Johannes, one of the sons and now president of the resort, started America’s first cross-country ski center here in 1968. Today, 100 kilometers of trails wind through 2,700 acres. After a disastrous fire in 1980, an atmospheric, European-style lodge and guest homes were built. The site is one of the leading resorts in the U.S., at least in part due to the inspiring panoramas visible from the lodge.
Suit up for a day of downhill and take a change of clothes for the spa. Drive down the mountain in your rental car to  McCarthy’s Restaurant for breakfast. Jill, who has served skiers for 29 years, may suggest the freshly baked sticky buns and blueberry pancakes with maple syrup. Take her advice.
Drive west to Mount Mansfield. To demo the latest skis or boards, stop at  Pinnacle Ski and Sports, which rents the highest-rated equipment tested by Ski magazine. Next door at Inner Bootworks, onetime ski bum Benny Wax matches problem feet with the perfect ski boots. Many skiers have him install battery-powered heaters in the soles of their boots.
Back in the car, head to  Stowe Mountain Resort. Drive west until Mount Mansfield fills your windshield. The gondola is straight ahead, but follow the signs to parking at the Mount Mansfield Base Lodge. Inside the lodge, sign up at the ski school desk for a ski or snowboard guide, if not an instructor.
Although the trails may look daunting, don’t feel intimidated. There are easy ways down, and your guide will happily match runs to your ability.
Ride up the Quad, an eight-minute trip that ends at 3,660 feet. A mountain view that stretches from New York to New Hampshire greets you. A favorite warmup trail is the mellow Ridge View that tracks toward the morning sun, joins the Charlie Lord trail, and ends at the base of the Mountain Triple Chair. Take the triple back up, and carve some turns on the groomed snow of North Slope. If your guide feels you have it in you, you’ll go down the Nosedive—the best trail on Mount Mansfield (be careful on the first pitch)—the Hayride, and the Lift Line. All are listed as expert, but the Nosedive really rates as intermediate after the first turns.
Lunch is at the Octagon Web Café. Have a crepe filled with your choice of vegetables or meats. Refreshed, ski down the Nosedive, cut left, and ride up the gondola. The trails are groomed, and the easy cruising will lift your ski ego.
After your workout, you’ll need some pampering. Ski back to the lodge, and drive along the Mountain Road six miles to the stellar spa at  Stoweflake Mountain Resort & Spa, where you have reservations. There are 120 treatments to choose from, but skiers seem to prefer the Après-Ski or Stoweflake Deep Tissue Massage. After that, soak in the Hungarian Mineral Pool and collapse in the lounge next to the fireplace.
Stop next at  The Shed, a microbrewery and Stowe’s first ski bar. Order Mountain Ale, the brewer’s favorite beer, and study some of the old ski photos on the wall. Drive back to the Trapp lodge for dinner. Austrian chef Juergen Spagolla’s specialties include huhnerschitzel Arlberg, grilled chicken cutlet with a white truffle–infused cream sauce, and venison with red-onion marmalade. Finish with the famous Trapp Family Linzertorte.
DAY TWO
/ Dig in to the Trapp continental buffet of homemade muesli, Austrian charcuterie, and freshly baked bread. You’ll work it off on the cross-country trails this morning. Gear up at the ski touring center. Consider a brief lesson if you’re new to Nordic. Even if you are, it’s easy to stride in the grooves set in the groomed trails. Follow the signs to Slayton Pasture Cabin, a three-kilometer journey. At the cabin, warm yourself by the wood-burning stove and enjoy a snack
of fresh fruit pastry and hot Vermont cider. Ski to the Haul Road for a great view of Mount Mansfield. This serene path will lead you to the Austrian Tea Room for a light lunch (and more pastry).
After freshening up and changing clothes, grab your snowshoes and drive to Stowe Village. You won’t be coming back until after dinner.
Park on Main Street or behind the Green Mountain Inn. Within a few minutes’ walking distance are a museum and a bevy of shops unique to Vermont.
 Shaw’s General Store, in the same family since 1895, has everything you could need in cold-weather wear. In the Depot Building,  Prints & Patches carries colorful quilts made by local artisans. Vermont Furniture Works, a few feet away, has handcrafted tables, desks, and beds.
The  Vermont Ski Museum, on the other side of the Green Mountain Inn, has retired ski lifts hanging from the ceiling. You’ll find a collection of ski fashions, antique skis, a video of Vermont ski history, and an exemplary display related to the U.S. Army’s 10th Mountain Division. Its veterans shaped postwar skiing in the U.S.
Across the street, a whimsical collection of decorated furniture and paintings of animals enlivens the  Stowe Craft Gallery & Design Center.
There’s no better way to see Stowe in all four of its seasons than by viewing the work of regional artists in  The Green Mountain Fine Art Gallery. For artwork of a differnt kind, head to the shop of  Blacksmith Richard Spreda, who forges, among other items, chandeliers. He crafted one very carefully, he says, from the sharp tines of 84 pitchforks.
Enough shopping, meandering, and gawking. With snowshoes in hand, walk behind the Community Church to the start of the Stowe Recreation Path. Veer right at the Quiet Path signs and snowshoe along the river until Mount Mansfield rises in the distance. Retrace your tracks to the Community Church. If the carillon is playing, well … this is one of those special moments.
Stow the snowshoes in your car, and walk to the Whip Bar & Grill in the  Green Mountain Inn. Sit by the fireplace and order tea or a Whip, the inn’s venerable version of an old-fashioned made with maple syrup. Be careful! It comes in a 10 ½-ounce glass. Amble down Main Street to the church and turn right at School Street to the  Blue Moon Café. This romantic restaurant prepares new American cuisine. Savor mint-infused lamb from Bambi Freeman’s nearby farm; then enjoy baked Belgian chocolate pot for dessert.
Still not tired? Stop at the  Rusty Nail Nightclub on the Mountain Road. There’s a large dance floor and often a lively band. Save just enough energy to drive back to Trapp.
DAY THREE
/ Suit up for the mountain, and drive toward Stowe to the Grey Fox Inn. The  Dutch Pancake Café serves 80 varieties of 12-inch pancakes. Goodies are spread on top or baked inside. Cinnamon and apples is a favorite; so is cheddar cheese and Canadian bacon.
Heading up to Mount Mansfield, this time you are on your own. If you dare, ski the double diamond, mogul-ridden Goat and the Starr. Otherwise, follow the Rimrock, near the top of the Nosedive, and traverse to the Perry Merrill and the gondola. Ride up and take the beautiful Cliff Trail back to the Nosedive.
Next, you’re heading out on a scenic drive. First, stop at  Gracie’s, six miles from Stowe Mountain Resort and one building south of Stoweflake Mountain Resort & Spa. This canine-themed restaurant is top dog in its class. There are 13 styles of burgers, all made with locally grown beef and available in four sizes. Don’t have dessert—that’s reserved for later. After lunch visit the onsite Gourmutt shop. You can buy special cuts of meat and take-out dinners for yourself, but all other offerings (pet treats, collars) go to the dogs.
Rare is the person who comes to Stowe without visiting  Ben & Jerry’s Ice Cream Factory. From Stowe, take Route 100 for 10 miles toward Waterbury. Take the ice cream tour and order a cone from one of 50 flavors.
Continue two miles to two other indigenous Vermont food producers. At the  Cabot Annex Store, sample cheeses including the world-champion aged cheddar. Hunter is another favorite.
Drive toward Stowe another mile, and the  Cold Hollow Cider Mill will be on the right. It has shelves of Vermont food specialties such as mustards, jams, and jellies. Be sure to have a cup of freshly pressed apple cider.
Continue north on Route 100 for four miles, turn right on Gold Brook Road, and follow the river for 1.2 miles to  Emily’s Haunted Covered Bridge, built in 1843. Drive over the bridge and park in the pullout. Emily, so the myth goes, was to meet her lover here and elope. He didn’t show, and she hung herself, or threw herself into the brook, or maybe not. Best to walk through the bridge and, if you dare, dally at the center and listen.
Head back to the Trapp lodge to change; you have reservations for a very special treat. Your visit coincides with Stowe Mountain Resort’s Dining in the Stars, a gourmet dinner at the  Cliff House Restaurant at the top of the gondola. You’ll be greeted at the base with fleece blankets, a lantern, and a cup of hot, spiced apple cider. Ride by lantern light to the summit for a champagne reception and a five-course meal by candlelight. After dinner, float down in the gondola, bundled up, lantern glowing. If your trip doesn’t coincide with this dinner, head down Mountain Road to  Mes Amis, Stowe’s most cheerful restaurant, and try the braised lamb shanks or beef bourguiginon.
Return to the Trapp lodge and settle in for an after-dinner drink by the fireplace. Ramble back over memories of your vigorous weekend and admit it—your New England holiday was exactly what you had hoped for.
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