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Founded along the banks of the
Yongding River in the second millennium B.C., a ragtag frontier
outpost would take the next thousand years to rise to the full
status of Beijing (Northern Capital). During the Ming Dynasty
(1368-1644), the completion of the Forbidden City-the oracle
from which the emperor exercised the mandate of heaven-consolidated
its position as the first city of Zhongguo (Middle Kingdom of
China).
The Northern Capital has persevered through history: conquered
by Mongol invaders, cultivated by imperial rule, defaced by
the children of the Cultural Revolution, and now in its fifth
millennium a magnet for global fortune-seekers and modern technology.
A colossal 16,808 square kilometers and home to more than 12
million Chinese and ethnic minorities, the capital city is today
the supreme epicenter of China's political educational, and
artistic life.
Your three perfect days in Beijing trace the cultural heritage
of the Northern Capital as it existed before Mao's peasant revolution
and the more recent Western-inspired modernization. Away from
the bustle of traffic, the ringing of mobile phones, and the
forests of skyscrapers, you can still stray through unspoiled
back-alley neighborhoods, delight at the ravishing Beijing Opera,
and explore traditional stores reminiscent of the late Qing
Dynasty (1644-1911). Before you know it, you will be bewitched
by the lingering romance and charming delights of a bygone era.
DAY ONE / You will navigate the inner
city with ease from your home base, a suite in 1 / The Palace
Hotel in the heart of Beijing. The hotel's emerald green-tiled
roof and tasteful exterior blend with the district's architecture,
and the hotel's interior provides all the comforts of home in
an elegant, modern décor.
During your three perfect days, there's no time for fretting
over the vernacular. Pick up your itinerary translated into
Mandarin, a hotel business card, and a city map from the front
desk. These basics will be your communication tools outside
the hotel. Just point to your destination. Most of the restaurants
will have at least one English menu.
Cabs are inexpensive and convenient, but walking or biking is
the way to see the real Beijing. Bike rentals, as well as ticket
purchases, restaurant reservations, and driver arrangements,
can be handled by the hotel.
Street food, such as youtiao (fried dough), is the breakfast
of the masses; instead, breakfast at the Palm Court Coffee House
where you can choose from Asian and Western fare.
If you're an early riser, catch the impressive pomp and circumstance
of the People's Liberation Army's (PLA's) flag-raising ceremony
held every morning at sunrise on 2 / Tiananmen Square, just
three blocks southwest of the hotel. Late sleepers can come
later when the high winds of spring gather countless kites and
lift them over the world's largest square. The rainbow-hued
canopy brightens even the gargantuan Stalinist architecture
of the Great Hall of the People, the Museum of the Chinese Revolution,
and 3 / Chairman Mao Memorial Hall enfolding the square. Join
the queue, located south behind the Monument to the People's
Heroes, that leads you past the crystal sarcophagus where a
preserved Chairman Mao Zedong still lies a quarter of a century
after his death.
Head north toward the ruddy-cheeked portrait of Mao hanging
on Tiananmen Gates. Arrive there by taking the Qianmen Dajie
walkway underpass. Before entering the red doors leading to
the 4 / Forbidden City (Gugong), rub the large gold studs for
good luck.
When you reach the Meridian Gate, the former royal entrance,
rent an audio tour to lead you through the caver-nous halls,
magnificent pavilions, and rambling courtyards-in total, 9,999
rooms. Emperor Yongle of the Ming Dynasty, the visionary behind
this monumental undertaking, had to consider the staff of 70,000
eunuchs, 9,000 concubines, and the storage of thousands of priceless
works of art. It's easy to imagine a militia of colorfully dressed
attendants, a cavalcade of curtained palanquins, the deafening
clang of cymbals and bells, the rustle of mandarin finery, and
air heavily perfumed with incense.
Across the northwest corner of the ancient palace is the main
city park of Beijing, 5 / Beihai Park, the emperor's winter
playground. Stroll around the lake where weary urbanites get
back to nature with rides on dragon paddleboats. Cross over
to Jade Islet, bearing the White Dagoba, a 36-meter-high structure
resembling a hand bell-a favorite backdrop for wedding portraits.
You've developed a royal appetite by now. Cross the stone bridge
near the east entrance of the park to 6 / Fangshan Restaurant
for extravagant imperial cuisine. Gaze over a set menu of a
dozen dishes, including five-spiced fish or slow-cooked abalone
with asparagus and green onions, served by waitresses in the
dazzling dress of palace handmaidens. Spend the rest of the
afternoon exploring the Shishahai Lake District, a unique 700-year-old
hutong (an ancient city alley or lane) just north of Beihai
Park.
Pedal around or, if you enjoy a more structured approach, have
the hotel arrange a 7 / guided pedicab (a combination bike and
ricksha) hutong tour. Enjoy the scenery as your driver negotiates
dangling clotheslines and tight corners.
After a quick nap or a refreshing dip in the hotel pool, 8 /
Lijun Beijing Duck House highlights your hutong experience with
melt-in-your-mouth roast duck in an authentic courtyard home.
Sink your teeth into homemade heyebing (pancake) lined with
duck meat, plum sauce, and scallions. Don't linger too long
over the duck soup finale, for the Beijing Opera awaits.
Possessing the resiliency of an age-old plum tree, the 300-year-old
9 / Zhengyici Theater is one of the few surviving Beijing Opera
theaters made entirely of wood. Combining Chinese witticism,
martial arts, and flamboyant costumes and makeup, the dynamic
art form known as jingju rolls up musical drama and comedy into
one show.
DAY TWO / Start your day at the east
entrance of the 1 / Temple of Heaven Park (Tiantan Gongyuan).
Pass tai chi practitioners on the spacious walkways as you make
your way to the northernmost section of the park, dominated
by the former sacrificial alter of the Hall of Prayer for Good
Harvest. Constructed of interlocking wood pieces using no nails,
the three-tiered pagoda is synonymous with Beijing.
Exit from the park's east side and cross Tiyuguan Lu toward
2 / Hongqiao Market. Small stalls overflow with old cigarette
ads, vintage wooden rice scoops, and red and black lacquerware.
The third-floor jewelry section draws pearl lovers with its
wide offering of fresh- and saltwater pearls.
If your visit falls on a weekend, don't miss 3 / Panjiayuan
Dirt Market, a couple of blocks to the east. Mornings are the
best time to sift through the communist kitsch, wooden mooncake
molds, purple yixing teapots, and embroidered robes and tapestries
from the Qing Dynasty. Haggling is fierce-down to the mao (cent).
This outdoor market is as authentic a Chinese experience as
you will find in Beijing.
Drop your purchases off at the hotel before slipping into a
quiet booth at the Palace Hotel's Fortune Garden Restaurant
for a well-deserved dim sum lunch. Share baskets and plates
of steamed prawn dumplings, deep-fried shrimp and water chestnuts,
and rice flour crepes rolled with sliced fish.
After lunch, walk or bike south of Tiananmen Square to Qianmen
Dajie, and then turn on Dashilan, a lane bordered by pretty
dark wood beams and brightly painted lintel doorways. The quick-cash
reputation of 4 / Liulichang Cultural Street originated in the
early Ming Dynasty, based on the area's production and sale
of glazed tiles used on the Forbidden City and Temple of Heaven;
that marketplace reputation grew when those who flunked imperial
examinations came to sell their books and calligraphy kits before
returning home. Today, the lane still sells an extensive variety
of traditional calligraphy supplies and is a resource for bookbinding
and scroll making. Stop by store No. 78 for exotic papers and
silks and No. 30 for beautiful woodblock prints and poetic ink
paintings.
A cup of tea and a great view can do wonders for tired feet.
Choose from 51 kinds of tea, such as White Snow Princess and
the Jade Ring of a Queen at 5 / Ji Gu Ge Teahouse on the second
floor of No. 132-136 Liulichang. From a window table, sip some
tea and watch the street activity.
Next, head to the nearby 6 / Silk Alley (Xiushui Shicang), where
the expat community and Chinese residents alike find great deals
on silk lingerie, cashmere items, and brand-name men's and women's
clothing.
Be back in time to catch the 7:15 p.m. 7 / Chinese acrobat show
at Poly Plaza. A few extra kuai (dollars) affords juhua cha
(chrysanthemum tea), sugared walnuts, and front-row seats to
view the world-class athleticism of the 65-child acrobat troupe.
Dinner tonight is at the intimate, elegant 8 / Green Tea House.
Enjoy the spring evening by walking from Poly Plaza. Head eastward
on Gongren Tiyuchang Beilu, and make a left to the festive Sanlitun
Jiuba Lu (Beer Drinking Street) where evening revelers crowd
the bars and cafés. Cross Dongzhimenwai Lu and take the side
street past the Friendship Store. Tall purple lanterns reveal
the location of the small 10-table eatery where dishes are creatively
prepared with tea. Begin with the pear, longevity tea, and walnut
salad with minty dressing.
The tofu and chestnuts entrée is simmered in Ceylon tea, and
Gong Bao JiDing (Sichuan "explosive chicken") is enhanced with
oolong tea.
DAY THREE / Rise and shine-the 1 / Great
Wall at Mutianyu awaits you. Your picnic lunch and driver, both
arranged the previous day, are ready for the 90-minute drive.
Of the three main gateways near Beijing, Mutianyu has spectacular
views without the crowds of Badaling or the breakneck precipices
of Simatai.
The climb up the mountain may have deterred the northern invaders,
but you can skip the time-consuming trudge by jumping on the
lift. When you get there you'll understand why the 6,700-kilometer-long
stone wall and staggered watchtowers, constructed between 220
B.C. and A.D. 1644, have been compared to a mythical dragon.
Your stomach will be growling by the time your driver takes
you to the 2 / Summer Palace (Yiheyuan), located in the northwestern
suburbs of Haidian District. Enjoy your picnic lunch from the
views off Longevity Hill, where dainty pavilions, green hillsides,
and sprawling corridors spread below like an exquisite tapestry.
Cool breezes from Kunming Lake, shaded stone pathways, and wide-open
grassy spaces made this the emperor's favorite retreat for his
hedonistic three-day parties. Before you leave, marvel at Empress
Dowager Cixi's marble boat "docked" at the north end.
Ochre- and maroon-robed monks worshiping and incense smoldering
from bronze urns put you in a spiritual mood as you enter 3
/ Lama Temple (Yonghegong). Frescoes tell the rich history of
Tibetan Buddhism, and complex woodwork integrates Han, Mongolian,
and Tibetan carpentry styles.
Your last stop takes you to the offbeat yet mystical 4 / Ancient
Observatory, located atop a shard of the old wall that once
surrounded the city. The gigantic 17th-century bronze astronomical
instruments were requisitioned by the Qing Dynasty's Emperor
Kangxi. They are timeless objets d'art, detailed with slithering
dragons, cupid's arrows pointing skyward, and spheres floating
on their axes.
As the afternoon slips into evening, your last night in old
Beijing is capped with a romantic dinner in a former courtyard
home turned art gallery, restaurant, and cigar divan in the
shadow of the Forbidden City. Arrive at the 5 / Courtyard Restaurant,
and, with a glass of sparkling wine, toast the last glow shimmering
off the golden palace roof from the upper divan. Start with
an appetizer of crispy shrimp with siomai stuffing, and proceed
to a main course of salmon drizzled with maple soy leek glaze
on a mound of spicy couscous with green tomato sauce. Prolong
the perfect evening with a moonlit stroll across the Forbidden
City moat. Wondering when your footsteps will grace old Beijing
again? A quick prayer and a yuan (coin) tossed in the moat ensure
a revisit-if not in this life, then the next.
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