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Who Moved My Cheese?

Hotel restaurants bring the stinky stuff out of the kitchen and into the cave

Author Jacqueline Detwiler


For quite some time, restaurants that wanted to dial up the class would roll a cart bedecked with expensive cheeses past your table sometime between the meat course and dessert. But lately, spots like Caprice at the Four Seasons Hotel in Hong Kong, NoMI Kitchen at the Park Hyatt in Chicago and TOCA at the Ritz-Carlton in Toronto have gone in a more permanent direction, installing cheese caves that protect their roqueforts and parmesans and also allow diners to get up from their tables and have a look. Caprice, which boasts three Michelin stars, is home to the first cheese cave in Hong Kong. TOCA’s glass-walled cave, meanwhile, cost the hotel about $250,000—which would buy only about 20 batches of the very, very pricey cheeses you’ll find inside.

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