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Simmer Down

The advent of easygoing haute cuisine is upon us

Author Jacqueline Detwiler Photography Tim Spreadbury


One of the greatest pleasures of being on the road is eating, but if you’ve got sightseeing to do, you may not want to slog through a four-hour onslaught of courses just to get a taste of a destination restaurant. Enter fine dining light: A number of respected chefs, such as Jason Atherton of Gordon Ramsay’s Maze and Bruno Menard of Tokyo’s three-Michelin-starred L’Osier, have recently opened restaurants geared more toward the everyday diner. The latest, and possibly most anticipated, of these is Amass, a pared-down dining room from Noma and Per Se alum Matt Orlando, which opened this summer in a graffiti-adorned bunker in Copenhagen. For about $100, Amass offers a “simplicity menu”—a prix-fixe five courses meant for people who just want to “drop by for a bite and enjoy the surroundings.”

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