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Simmer Down

The advent of easygoing haute cuisine is upon us

Author Jacqueline Detwiler Photography Tim Spreadbury

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One of the greatest pleasures of being on the road is eating, but if you’ve got sightseeing to do, you may not want to slog through a four-hour onslaught of courses just to get a taste of a destination restaurant. Enter fine dining light: A number of respected chefs, such as Jason Atherton of Gordon Ramsay’s Maze and Bruno Menard of Tokyo’s three-Michelin-starred L’Osier, have recently opened restaurants geared more toward the everyday diner. The latest, and possibly most anticipated, of these is Amass, a pared-down dining room from Noma and Per Se alum Matt Orlando, which opened this summer in a graffiti-adorned bunker in Copenhagen. For about $100, Amass offers a “simplicity menu”—a prix-fixe five courses meant for people who just want to “drop by for a bite and enjoy the surroundings.”

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