Gussying up a Central American fast-food favorite
Author John Thompson
Quesillos—in which soft farmer’s cheese is topped with pickled onions, wrapped in a warm white corn tortilla and doused with cream—are usually sold along the highways that connect Nicaragua’s major cities, and eaten out of plastic bags. Managua’s La Trenza, however, brings quesillos in from the street to the diner—or, more properly, the shrine.
At La Trenza, quesillos are served eight ways. The restaurant’s namesake dish presents the cheese as a thick braided brick. The “Pepe” is more balanced: The cheese is flattened to fit the area of the tortilla. The “Madre” combines one of each.
While each dish can be served in the traditional to-go style, it’s better savored open-face on a plate while you people-watch from La Trenza’s shaded patio. Besides, tableware is recommended for eating something like the “Super India”: two extra-large braids (a half pound of cheese) with all the fixings.