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Three Perfect Days: Buenos Aires

The stylish South American capital with an epic history stakes its claim as an international center of cuisine, culture and design

Author Jon Marcus Photography Javier Pierini and Yadid Levy

Café Tortoni, the oldest coffee shop in Buenos Aires

Picture 14 of 14

Eva Perón remains the pride of the porteños

Seriously, don’t cry for Evita.

Sixty years after the death of the Argentine first lady who soaked the rich to help the poor — and, not coincidentally, her husband’s political prospects — Eva “Evita” Perón is omnipresent in Buenos Aires. Her story may be a mix of fact and myth, but it is indisputably mesmerizing.

Museo Evita tells the sanitized version preferred by her family, assembling it with the help of newsreel footage, personal mementos and her famous dresses, shoes and hats. Housed in an Italian Renaissance-style mansion transformed by Evita in 1948 into a shelter for women and children, the museum also has an excellent café with a beautiful garden.

Evita never said the words ascribed to her by the Andrew Lloyd Webber musical. But there is this, from one of the many fawning plaques placed on her tomb in Recoleta Cemetery: “Don’t cry for me, Argentina,” it reads. “I remain quite near to you.”


Emmanuel Burgio
“On Saturdays, I like to visit MALBA and have a bite on the terrace of Café des Arts, then tour art galleries like Galería Zurbarán or auction houses such as Arroyo Remates — both in the same neighborhood in Centro.”

Gabriela Troncoso
“I love to just walk through the city. Every weekend you will find new things. I like to sit in the Rosedal, a little park full of roses in the Palermo Woods, with my Yorkie, Ninna, and talk to other people walking there. It’s our Central Park.”

Martin Rosberg
“Take an afternoon break in the cafés inside the bookstores Eterna Cadencia and Libros del Pasaje in Palermo to read and drink good coffee. Or go for a standup lunch at Fitz Roll on Fitz Roy Street. It’s a healthy, inexpensive place that opens only for lunch.”

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2 Responses to “Three Perfect Days: Buenos Aires”

  1. Sebastian Says:
    January 5th, 2012 at 9:02 am

    It’s quite curios to see the fascination of foreigners with Evita Peron. The picture they have of Evita comes probably from the movie or the play and has no connection to the real character. Many Argentineans have a very different and much less favorable opinion of who she was and what she did. At the same time and again based in a film, Juan Peron is view as a dark power behind her, also false. There would be no Evita without Peron and he was the driving force behind the changes that improved the living conditions of most workers in Argentina.

  2. Eva Says:
    July 29th, 2012 at 10:48 am

    I think the author missed the mark. Most Argentineans go to Fervor for the seafood and fish, not the steak. Shopping on the same day in Palermo and in Recoleta is like shopping on Madison Avenue and in Brooklyn all in one afternoon. Buenos Aires is a large cosmopolitan city and it takes time to get from one place to another. Argentineans take you past the Evita Peron photo, say take a look, you’ve seen enough. There’s so much more to this wonderful South American city with locals who speak Spanish, act like Americans, and think like Italians.

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