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Three Perfect Days: Paris

Paris is known for its exquisite cuisine, extraordinary shops and dizzying array of museums and cafés. But to really enjoy Europe’s most sublime city, do what the locals do: Keep it simple.

Author Sarah Horne Photography Bruno Fert / Picturetank

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DAY ONE | Stretch indulgently as you open your eyes at the Hôtel Particulier (1), a Montmartre mansion that once belonged to the Hermès family. Descend to the mod salon for a taste of perfection served on a silver tray: a warm chocolate croissant, slices of airy, chewy baguette with butter and jam, and a steaming pot of coffee, all proffered by a demure serveuse clad in a proper French maid’s uniform.

Outside, wend your way down majestic Avenue Junot, admiring the grand Haussmann-era homes that French film stars like Fanny Ardant call home. A well-heeled dame shuffles past, off to do her provisioning at the local boulangerie Le Grenier à Pain (2), which was awarded the prize for best baguette in Paris earlier this year (and is therefore duty-bound to supply President Sarkozy and Carla Bruni’s daily loaves).

After getting lost on the crowded stairways of Montmartre—made famous by Toulouse-Lautrec and Picasso—you happen upon the Lamarck-Caulaincourt metro stop, where you’ll say goodbye to this arty enclave and make for the center of the city.

At the St-Michel stop, avoid the noisy bustle of the Latin Quarter and turn toward the river, wandering down the Quai des Grands Augustins and browsing through the bouquinistes’ stalls of vintage books before crossing the Seine on the Pont des Arts (3). Here, on the wooden span of the bridge, you’ll find a bench at which to pause and take in the Ile de la Cité and much of medieval Paris arrayed before you. Suddenly you feel a touch of vertigo, but relax, it’s just a little sensory overload. The best antidote is lunch.

Thankfully, you’ve booked ahead at La Régalade Saint-Honoré (4), one of Paris’ most highly regarded “neo-bistros,” set just behind the Louvre. Take respite in the unadorned dining room and kick things off with a rustic pot of chicken pâté served with delectable mini cornichons. The prix-fixe menu, concocted by chef Bruno Doucet, is exactly the initiation into French dining that you’ve been yearning for, all the simple joys of foodie Paris on three no-frills white plates.

Sated, you decide to walk off this feast in the Jardin des Tuileries (5), beginning at the glass pyramid of the Louvre and sauntering west, marveling at the precisely pruned gardens first laid out for the delight of Louis XIV in 1664. Once filled with courtiers, the Tuileries are now packed with chic sunbathers who lounge on green metal chairs wearing ballet flats and ultrashort shorts, small dogs napping in the shade under their legs.

You extract yourself from the bliss of people watching for a healthy dose of culture at the Musée de l’Orangerie (6), the French monarchs’ former greenhouse just off the Place de la Concorde. You are transported by the room full of Claude Monet’s water lilies and feel your blood pressure lowering as you settle into the rhythm of Parisian life.

Next, hop the metro back to the hotel and slip upstairs for a late afternoon nap before primping for a fashionably late dinner. You’ve made reservations in cool- again Pigalle, where you dine on the back patio at Hôtel Amour (7) among the very young and the very thin. Order some French comfort fare and raise a glass to your exceptionally tired feet.



7 Responses to “Three Perfect Days: Paris”

  1. Ronnie Says:
    September 10th, 2010 at 12:45 am

    That’s all excellent advice and I’d say the principle also applies to London and other European cities famous for their culture.

    Why go there is you’re going to rush around instead of taking in the ambience of the city.

  2. Andrea Says:
    September 10th, 2010 at 7:58 am

    I tried to download and nothing happens. I would love to print

  3. Hemispheres Editor Says:
    September 10th, 2010 at 9:25 am

    Hi Andrea,

    You may need to try a different browser. If that doesn’t work, try our eMag by clicking on the cover in the upper righthand corner of the screen. Thanks for reading!

  4. Ken G. Hagmann Says:
    September 22nd, 2010 at 11:46 am

    Excellent advice.
    My honey and I are headed out in October for 3 weeks, and are so looking forward to getting lost in Paris. The food, the people, the art, and looking for the special place for a great quite moment. My first trip I was so amazed how big Paris is. I wanted to see so many places, my darling said, well lets do one a day, and then get lost. So that’s what we did, our trip was a joy.

    Thank you for sharing with all of us. Aloha from Hawaii.

    Ken and Lee Hagmann

  5. Gio Sanserino Says:
    October 18th, 2011 at 11:47 pm

    Any visit to Paris is not complete without visiting the Jaquemart-Andre museum on Blvd. Hausmann. Visit the stunning home of this marvelously rich couple, and see the incredible art they collected so many years ago. One of our very favorite places, period. Be sure to take the audio guide.

  6. Sandy Says:
    November 7th, 2013 at 10:56 pm

    Excellent advice! A great place to just stroll and enjoy. Forget the checklist!

  7. Margaret McCreadie Says:
    February 7th, 2014 at 10:32 am

    I love the advise given and am looking forward to viewing the “City of Light” this coming May. Many thanks for the input.

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