Hemispheres Magazine

DAY THREE / Early this morning, promenade down Pall Mall, lined by London’s famous members-only gentle-men’s clubs built in the late 19th century and early 20th century. (At 104, The Reform Club provided the background for Phileas Fogg’s fictitious departure in Around the World in 80 Days.) A right turn at St James’s Street leads to a certified celebrity haunt, The Wolseley. Everyone from Catherine Zeta-Jones to Camilla has been paparazzied in front of this grand Mitteleuropa café.

After your Einspänner coffee and Vienoisserie pastries, it’s off to visit Museumland in South Kensington. The miracle mile of museums built in the 1850s by Prince Albert has something for everyone: the Science Museum, the Natural History Museum, and the Victoria and Albert Museum—all free. And their gift shops are treasures in themselves.

It’s well past 1 p.m., so have lunch at buzzy Wagamama on Kensington’s High Street. You’ll commune at convivial group tables over ramen noodles and miso soup.

After lunch, put on your spyglasses and head north along Kensington Palace Gardens—a private road that’s open to pedestrians. It’s known as Billionaire’s Row and is dotted with grand embassies and imposing gates.

There’s time for a quick nose around Portobello Road. The famous market runs every Saturday, and its permanent jewellery and antiques shops are open six days a week. We can’t all be rich, but we can indulge in a little me-time now and then. An hour in a warm candlelit room at Spa.NK (part of the Space.NK apothecary) on Westbourne Grove is time well spent.

Youthful and relaxed, you’re ready for a night at the opera—in the gardens of lush Holland Park, one of the most romantic parks in London. Elegant and intimate, Opera Holland Park’s open-air events attract London society at its most genteel. The season runs from June through August. A glass of Pimm’s on the terrace is part of the fun. Whether or not the opera is on, the park, one of the city’s most romantic, is beloved for its charming Kyoto Japanese Garden, rose gardens, and splendid peacocks.

Then visit Galvin Bistro de Luxe, the gorgeous award-winning bistro of brothers Chris and Jeff Galvin. It’s refined, low-key, and still a deal for tantalizing dishes like Berkshire pheasant, Puy lentils, and saucisson lyonnais. Save room for yummy apple tarte Tatin with crème Normande.

With tunes from Tosca in your head, ask your cab driver to take you home down The Mall and under Admiralty Arch. The lights of London at night are as romantic as you’ll find. If this route is inspiring enough for Her Majesty, surely it’s a good way back to the hotel after three perfect days. u Leslie Woit enjoys cycling around London but still uses the “Look Left” and “Look Right” signs on the pavement just to be sure. Her 2007 HEMISPHERES feature “Ticket to Tibet” won an award from the North American Travel Journalists Association.

London Weather

Damp, foggy, drizzly: London’s weather could sure use some PR. On the positive side, extreme heat and cold are rare. Winter highs are in the mid-40s. Snows are light and infrequent. In May highs peak in the 60s and near 70 in July and August. On the negative side, the marine climate means plenty of days with clouds, fog, and drizzle. Rainfall is generally on the light side. From May to September, dry, sunny days occur more often.

The Weather Channel

Weather information is provided by The Weather Channel. For more London climatological details, visit weather.com.

Getting Around

In June, United is moving to LHR’s newly remodeled Terminal 1, which will streamline the departures and arrivals process. Getting to central London from the airport takes about 50 minutes on the Underground and costs £4. The Heathrow Express train reaches Paddington Station in 15 minutes and costs £14.50 in standard class. A cab costs around £45 to £55.

London for Kids

A The Dungeons (the dungeons.com) This theme park covers 2,000 years of London’s gruesome history.
B Harry Potter Tour (walks. co.uk) This taxi tour goes direct to more than 20 London film locations.
C Topshop (topshop.com) For any teen fashion maven, the flagship store is a must.
D London Aquarium (londonaquarium.co.uk) See sharks, feedings, and more.
E Hamley’s (hamleys.com) This toy store was established in 1760 and now has seven floors of toys, games, and other delights.

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